Almost a century ago, Charles London — founder of family-owned London Jewelers — was known for offering exceptional timepieces.
This week, the venerable retailer is burnishing that reputation with its annual Watch Fair.
Visitors will get to see, touch and try on luxurious watches from the world’s most exclusive manufacturers, all while enjoying London’s signature hospitality at its elegant flagship store in Manhasset, LI.
The celebration will include cigar rolling, gelato scoops, delicious bites from an on-site pizza maker and other fall delights.
Zach Udell, a vice president and fourth generation member of the family business, says the event is what makes him tick.
“There’s tremendous excitement about it,” he tells Alexa. “Everyone is sending us new pieces that you won’t see at any other watch store. Some of them are truly surreal.”
For 2023, Udell notes that manufacturers are delving deeper into their archives and re-creating styles with fresh vibes and innovative complications. “They’re balancing the brand’s heritage and DNA with something new,” he explains. “In some cases, it’s for a younger generation of watch lovers who don’t want their dad’s or grandpa’s watch. They want something that’s more in sync with today’s lifestyle.”
He points to the latest edition of Patek Philippe’s Calatrava, noting that it remains classic with its white-gold case, yet boasts a modern, embossed crosshatch motif in ebony on the dial, along with a calfskin strap featuring bold stitching in bright yellow, red or sky blue, plus a colorful matching lining on the back.
“It’s still very iconic Patek,” says Udell. “But it addresses clients who want to show off their individuality in a cool way, like wearing Nike Dunks with a tuxedo.”
Patek has also introduced the first chronograph model (which also includes a Travel Time complication) to its Pilot watch line. “For those looking for complications and casual wearability, this is the perfect work-meets-life watch, with its understated, lacquered khaki-green dial and distressed calfskin strap,” he says.
Patek Philippe Calatrava watch in 18-k white gold, $37,850
While vividly hued watches may have seemed novel only a few years ago, Udell says “color has really become mainstream.” At Rolex, the new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 comes in two exotic shades: Its orange dial is cut from carnelian, a semiprecious mineral, embellished with gold-and-diamond hour markers, while a sparkling bright green version is hewn from aventurine, a textured stone with a finely crystallized surface.
Another Rolex standout for Udell is the platinum Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona — with its ice-blue dial and chestnut-brown bezel, along with a sapphire (or exhibition) caseback that shows its movement in action. “It will be appreciated by watch lovers who are generally fascinated by watchmaking.”
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 watch in 18-k yellow gold with diamonds and carnelian, price on request
As for Cartier, the Baignoire model, first introduced in the early 1900s, is in great demand, according to the watch maven.
The name — which is French for “bathtub” — refers to the watch’s oval dial and bezel and “is a very iconic shape in watch history,” explains Udell.
For 2023, the quartz-powered version is larger and attached to a bangle, making it jewelry-like. The classic Santos de Cartier has also gotten a refresh. It, too, has increased in size and comes with either a deep green or blue dial.
Santos de Cartier watch in steel with sapphire, $7,050
And finally, Udell says, brighter hues are popping up in sportier watch varieties, including the relaunch of Bulgari’s Aluminium GMT.
“The blue logo bezel, [and] blue and red worked into the dial, and comfortable rubber strap make it eye-catching, versatile and an easy entry point for the aspiring collector.”
Bulgari Aluminum GMT watch, $3,600
The thrill of debuting the best and most beautiful watches at the store never gets old for the VP. He started working in London Jewelers’ stockroom as a teenager more than two decades ago, under the tutelage of his grandfather, Mayer Udell.
“I remember opening boxes and just being dazzled by the merchandise. I still get that same feeling today,” he says. As do his many clients. “They’ll put on a special watch, and all of a sudden, you get to see this very genuine smile light up their face.”
Fun O’Clock
London Jewelers’ VP Randi Udell Alper sets her watch to party time.
IDOL CHATTER
Panthère de Cartier Manchette watch in 18-k gold, $43,600
“The Cartier Manchette is an amazing, signature piece from the Panthère collection. It’s dual purpose: bringing together jewelry, with the cuff bracelet, and a timepiece. It’s 100% a conversation starter — it’s truly a major statement piece.”
TIME TRAVELER
Patek Philippe Aquanaut watch in 18-k rose gold with diamonds, $43,170
“When it comes to young, cool and on-trend styles, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut travel watch perfectly fits the bill. People are loving diamond bezels, and it’s so easy to wear and comfortable. All the women we talk with this year seem to be wanting white.”
DIAMOND JUBILEE
Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas watch in 18-k rose gold with diamonds, $66,000
“Bulgari made this Serpenti Tubogas watch to celebrate Serpenti’s 75th anniversary. It’s ultra feminine and iconic with a swirl of diamonds running through it. It’s a real showstopper.”
HAPPY HOUR
Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” watch in Oystersteel, $6,400
“The new Rolex ‘bubble’ watch is so unexpected, unique and exciting. It’s completely different than anything the company has ever done, and the witty mix of all the colors on the dial — pink, hunter green, coral, yellow and turquoise — is positively mood lifting.”
TIME MACHINE
London Jewelers’ VP Scott Udell embraces a throwback moment.
RETRO WRIST
Rolex GMT-Master II in 18-k gold, $38,900
“The new Rolex GMT definitely pays homage to that gold bracelet era in the ’70s, ’80s and early ’90s. Its half gray, half black ceramic bezel adds interest, and it’s very versatile. Wear it with a tux or to the beach.”
FACE TIME
Santos de Cartier watch in steel, $7,750
“The Santos de Cartier is a standout piece, brought back from the archives in a bigger version. While it has the quintessential Cartier DNA and is very classic, there are new green or blue dials that are really striking. Along with that iconic steel bracelet, it comes with a second strap in matching alligator.”
CLASSIC COOL
Patek Philippe Calatrava Self-winding watch in white gold, $78,660
“Even though it’s from a more traditional line, the Patek Philippe Calatrava gets a twist from its vintage-style dial in dark gray with a grainy texture. That and the beige calfskin strap definitely freshen up the more classic look, which speaks to a wider audience — from the younger collector to a seasoned connoisseur.”
BLUE CHIP
Tudor Pelagos FXD watch in titanium, $3,725
“A modern watch with historical inspiration, the new Tudor Pelagos, with its blue dial and matching blue fabric strap, is a really fun, versatile piece. A great value and first watch for the collector.”
London Jewelers’ flagship is in Manhasset, with additional stores in Southampton, East Hampton, Glen Cove, and Wheatley Plaza in Greenvale, LI, as well as downtown Manhattan and the Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey.
All at London Jewelers, 2046 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, LI
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